One last note re: electric erasers, which I use very successfully on
Dura-Lene film, is to use the metal eraser shields, used by
draftspersons. They are great for protecting adjacent line work. I have
not found it necessary to wet the yellow imbibed eraser but it does
sometimes render the surface unable to accept ink as Elaine mentions.
"Elaine R.S. Hodges" wrote:
> Kris Kirkeby and Britt kindly forwarded to me parts of the pen and
> ink discussion.
> Regarding making corrections on Bristol board, I find that an
> electric eraser with a white plastic eraser plug ("rubber" - Geoff!)
> quickly produces a very smooth surface, as good or better than the
> original. Now I used Strathmore 500 2 ply, hot press (plate finish)
> for the most part (similar quality is made by Rising and other paper
> suppliers); it could be that lower quality Bristols might not react
> as well.
> One should use the eraser carefully when erasing the inked error,
> moving back and forth so that a hole is not worn into one spot. The
> so-called gray "ink" eraser is too abrasive, and the red or pink
> softer eraser (similar to Pink Pearl in texture) works but sometimes
> leaves pink stains.
> I don't recommend the electric eraser plugs designed for paper on
> films. The surface would be abraded. However, yellow imbibed eraser
> plugs are made for electric erasers to be used on film. Maybe
> wetting one, as suggested by Geoff, might protect the film from
> excessive abrasion if used carefully. In general, I would be
> concerned that any use of an electric eraser on film would remove the
> surface pretty quickly, leaving no surface that accepts ink. One
> should experiment and use a light touch.
> NOTE NEW E-MAIL ADDRESS:
> Elaine R.S. Hodges [log in to unmask]
> Scientific Illustrator
> 85253 Ridgetop Drive
> Eugene, OR 97405-9535 Phone: 541-684-0484, Fax: 541-684-9662