I've never been to Antarctica, but have taken photos in temps as low as -20
degrees F (I live in Maine.)  Advice about cameras and batteries from Lana
Johnson is right on the money.  But I would add trying to find a camera or
two that's entirely mechanical, that is, the battery does not operate the
shutter mechanism, nor set the shutter speed or aperture opening
automatically.  Not easy to find nowadays, but I believe Pentax and Nikon
both still produce 35mm SLR bodies that are all-mechanical.  Oh, and Leica.
This way if the battery fails (and they fail from one minute to the next at
sub-zero temps) the camera will still take photos.  You'd have to bracket
exposures or carry a small separate light meter in a warm place -- up one
sleeve maybe.  (Test the light meter against photo results before leaving.)
I have two Pentax MX bodies (still available used) that have never failed to
function in winter conditions, even though it was cold enough to split the
film.  That's another thing:  at super cold temps use a camera with manual
film advance and wind the advance slowly.  Best of luck in a truly beautiful
place!   Bruce Bartrug, [log in to unmask]

On 1/10/06, Lana Johnson <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
>
> Hi Deb,
> I was the recipient of the National Science Foundation's 1992/1993
> Antarctic Artists & Writers Program grant. I spent three months drawing
> and painting the landscapes and wildlife in Antarctica. I was there
> during the peak of the Antarctic summer (December through February).
> Temperatures ranged on average between -10 degrees F to 45 degrees F.
> The lowest temperature I experienced was -64 degrees F but I did not
> attempt to make any art at that extreme temperature --- I just took
> photographs.
>
> The NSF trips were not my first to Antartica. I initially went to
> Antarctica in 1989 on a cruise ship. Prior to that trip I had the same
> questions as you about producing cold weather art. By good fortune and
> coincidence the Pacific Asia Museum here in Pasadena, California was
> hosting a show of Peter Adams' landscapes of the Himalayas. I contacted
> Peter and he gave me some good advice.
>
> "If you're planning to use watercolor, buy some of those tiny bottles
> of vodka at the airport," he said. "In the field, mix a little vodka in
> with your water to keep it from freezing. Then drink a little yourself
> to keep you from freezing."
>
> Peter was making a joke (you don't want to drink alcohol in the field
> in Antarctica; it dehydrates you; this could compound your problems of
> being in a place drier than the Sahara), but in actuality the vodka
> trick works. Peter gave me even better advice, though: Bring pastels.
> No freezing problems whatsoever. Peter even gave me my first set of
> pastels to take to Antarctica (he's one of the kindest, most generous
> artists on the planet).
>
> So here is what I use when I go to Antarctica: I take a box of pastels
> and pads of good pastel paper for my landscapes. I also bring a tiny
> portable watercolor kit made by Winsor Newton and use that for some
> landscapes, too. It is compact yet opens up to reveal cakes of paint, a
> tiny brush (I bring a couple of bigger brushes, too), a mixing
> pallette, a water cup and a waterbottle. The watercolor cakes are
> removable so I customize it and substitute and reorganize the colors
> that come with the kit with a pallette that is more appropriate to
> Antarctica. To paint and draw the wildlife I use watercolors, black and
> brown Sharpies (very permanent markers; I use all different sizes),
> white gouache, Prismacolor pencils and both toned paper pads and white
> watercolor paper pads. The black Sharpies and the white gouache on
> toned paper are perfect for rendering penguins. I made a lot of
> wildlife field studies using watercolor (don't forget the vodka!) on
> heavy watercolor paper; I also made fine line drawings with my Sharpies
> and colored them in with watercolor. I never had trouble with my
> Sharpies freezing.
>
> Also, bring Patagonia polypropylene gloves to wear when it gets cold. I
> hate wearing gloves when I draw but these are pretty thin gloves and,
> hence, not as much of a nuisance.
>
> When I scuba dive under the ice I don't draw; I take photos (Fuji ASA
> 100 slide film). If you plan to take photos on the surface of
> Antarctica (and you'd be crazy not to), bring five cameras and lots of
> spare batteries. Most of your cameras will break or malfunction in the
> cold (except for the cheap ones, usually) and batteries have a very,
> very short life in extreme cold weather. If you shoot slide film I
> highly recommend Fuji Velvia, a professional super fine grained film.
> If you use Velvia you won't need any filters or polarizers. Always
> bring much more film than you think you'll need. I shot over 6,000
> slides my last trip there --- and, believe it or not, nearly every
> picture was an irreplaceable gem. The lighting conditions are often
> fantastic in Antarctica.
>
> Here at home in Pasadena I regularly paint in acrylics and oils but I
> deliberately do not take them with me to Antarctica. Besides being
> environmentally hazardous (oils, turpentine and thinner in particular),
> it's just too much gear and stuff to schlepp around. It can also be
> rather dangerous to make a shore leap out of a Zodiac boat with the
> added weight and imbalance of a pochoir box strapped to your back or,
> worse, in your hands. I've also been in a lot of hiking situations in
> Antarctica where the awkwardness of carrying a pochoir box could have
> resulted in serious injury. Make no mistake: As beautiful as it is (and
> I consider Antarctica the most beautiful place on earth), Antarctica is
> constantly a dangerous and often deadly place to be. Never let your
> guard down; it can mean your life.
>
> Have a great trip! Please e-mail me jpegs of some of your pictures when
> you get back.
>
> Most Sincerely,
>
> William Stout
>