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Thanks Bruce, Wish I'd thought of that when preparing for the Artbar
demo. We used low-quality photo-printing paper, which worked but was
not ideal. I think there is plastic in the coating and it doesn't
scrape cleanly and easily. Still some people at the Artbar spent ages
using it and producing nice drawings.Cheers,Geoff

         
----- Original Message -----
From: "SciArt-L Discussion List-for Natural Science Illustration-" 
To:
Cc:
Sent:Mon, 29 Jul 2013 18:52:00 -0400
Subject:Re: [SCIART] Processing pen and ink stippled illustrations -
whiter substrate

Geoff,

I think the clay coating is called baryta, and paper like that for
classy magazines used to be produced at mills here in Maine.  Not
certain it's made here anymore since most of the mills have closed
down or moved overseas.  It might be available from a printing
company, which is often the best way to test a new paper.  Or buy a
quantity of same without needing a credit card.  There are two
printers in town here that would sell small batches of paper to
locals.

b

On Mon, Jul 29, 2013 at 6:42 PM, Smith Will (Toowong)  wrote:

	Are you still doing and ink drawings at the Museum, Geoff? It is a
shame if you aren’t, these are great. 

	 

	Will Smith 

	Projet Officer (Botanical Imaging)

	Queensland Herbarium 

	Science Delivery

	Department of Science, IT, Innovation and the Arts (DSITIA) 

	 

	Brisbane Botanic Gardens Mt Coot-tha 

	Mt Coot-tha Road, Toowong, Queensland, Australia 4066

	 Phone: (07) 38969508 

	  

	FROM: SciArt-L Discussion List-for Natural Science Illustration-
[mailto:[log in to unmask] [2]] ON BEHALF OF Geoff Thompson
SENT: Tuesday, 30 July 2013 8:36 AM
TO: [log in to unmask] [3]
SUBJECT: Re: [SCIART] Processing pen and ink stippled illustrations -
whiter substrate 

	 

	Thanks Bruce, 

	                            I just wanted to add that
using greyish drafting film is part of the problem and put in a plug
for clay-coated paper. 

	This does not seem to be used much in the US but it's good stuff. It
can only be bought in quantity from a paper merchant. It's used for
printing high-quality magazines and has a thin white clay coating.
It's transparent enough to trace outlines on a light box and allows
one scrape for easy corrections or even scratchboard style drawing. I
did this drawing of the Australian giant cockroach (the heaviest
cockroach in the world) on it. 

	http://geoffthompson.net/art/bw/macropanesthia_rhinoceros.html [4]  

	Mostly I used to use it for simpler drawings like these.
http://geoffthompson.net/art/bw/aptenocanthon_jimara-kabura.html [5] 

	We used to liken it to a poor person's scratchboard. Because it has
to be bought in quantity by the time you want to order more the old
brand is usually unavailable and you have to ask for samples to try
out. Paper merchants will usually send these if you ring and describe
the sort of paper you want to try. Lighter weights trace better on the
light box. I do my pencil on tracing paper and tape it to the
clay-coated paper with removable tape. Use a number 2 scraping tool or
a curved scalpel blade to scrape shallowly for corrections. 

	We used to get the minimum order cut into A4 or A3 size pieces and
that would be a few years'supply for less than $200. The prices may
have risen since then though. 

	Cheers,

	Geoff 

	  

----- Original Message -----

	 FROM:

	"SciArt-L Discussion List-for Natural Science Illustration-"  

	 

	TO: 

	CC:

	  

	SENT:

	Mon, 29 Jul 2013 07:03:57 -0400 

	SUBJECT:

	Re: [SCIART] Processing pen and ink stippled illustrations

	For this particular application Levels would be the better adjuster
tool, as both Taina and Geoffrey noted.  Levels also has a gamma
adjustment (the center button) that controls contrast.  This can also
help clean up the gray.  (With applications having a plethora of tone
and/or color values, Curves is much better.   And in fact, if you
use Curves a lot you can do the same with that tool.  Just slide the
end points in or out, which is the same as the black and white sliders
on Levels;  for a gamma adjustment, grab the center of the straight
line and pull it into a curve one way or the other.) 

	If your scanner has adjustments, those can help as well.  Set the
scan to produce a straight line and move the (very similar) levels
adjustments before scanning. 

	It's a perpetual problem getting a white background to look evenly
white in a scanned or photographed image.  I'm sure I'm not alone in
having given up in frustration more than once and just used a Magic
Wand selection (or Color selection or similar), cleaned up the edges
here and there at high magnification, then deleted the selection to
white.  It takes time, but does work. 

	Cheers,

	b   

	 

	On Sun, Jul 28, 2013 at 10:37 PM, Taina Litwak  wrote: 

	Hi - I do more or less what Geoff does.  Curves I find a total pain
to control.  Never use them.  Once the image is processed, I reduce
the dpi and save at 600.  The scientific journals here in the states
seem happy with the 600 dpi grayscale TIFF files. They print
consistently well in my experience.  Mirka's method sounds good too
though.

--
Taina Litwak
Litwak Illustration Studio
13029 Chestnut Oak Drive
Darnestown, MD  20878

tel: 301-527-0569
mobile: 240-750-9245

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