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Thanks!

Patricia Savage
Mayapple Studio

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On Jan 29, 2014, at 3:40 PM, gretchen halpert <[log in to unmask]> wrote:

Honestly, it's been a long time since I've tried the Denril since I have Cronaflex-which has yellowed a bit. It's also been quite a while since I've done a carbon dust drawing. I don't remember having issue with pencil lines.


Gretchen Halpert
Illustrator/educator
www.gretchenhalpert.com


On Wed, Jan 29, 2014 at 2:28 PM, Patricia Savage <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
Thanks for pitching in about the Denril. Our "bible" mentions that it can be uneven to apply pencil lines, so I wondered. Have you noticed that or is it a matter of just getting used to a new surface? I've never worked on film, so I'll definitely need to "brush" up on my technique.


Patricia Savage
Mayapple Studio

Sent from my iPad

On Jan 28, 2014, at 7:19 PM, gretchen halpert <[log in to unmask]> wrote:

I second all that Karen says. Fortunately, I still have some Cronaflex and do use that for dust and colored pencil. In classes I offer Denril for film and Canson Mi-Tientes for paper for both carbon and pastel dust. There is also a good list of optional grounds in the GNSI Handbook. When I use film I either work on both sides, or back-paint. I know I'm parroting Karen just to say these techniques work well for me too.
Gretchen



On Tue, Jan 28, 2014 at 6:00 PM, Karen Ackoff <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
Of course DuPont's Cronaflex is lovely but no longer made.

Denril actually comes pretty close. This is available in sheets and pads as "multimedia film". You can scratch to make corrections or make highlights, but have to be careful not to scratch too deep. 

The fun part of working on film is that you can back-paint it to lend color. For example, if you do a carbon dust rendition of a skull, you could back-paint the skull with an ivory tone. Then, place the entire drawing over a colored paper to create a colored background. Back-painting can be done nicely with acrylics.

Papers are ColorAid (a clay-coated paper that comes in white and many additional colors). And I like just a plan paper called "ledger paper". It's a thin paper with a nice amount of tooth. Works very well for graphite dust too (which produces a silvery effect). In fact, I always used to add a little graphite to my carbon dust… it made it go down nice and smoothly. However, I no longer see a product called "ledger paper". But it's akin to a cheap, basic sketching paper.

Note that carbon dust technique can be extended to working with colored pastels (chalk-like pastels), producing beautiful results. However, frequent light spraying with a workable fixative is required in order to bind the pastels to paper (I used to work on Canson Mi-Tientes paper). In the end, it almost resembles an oil painting.

Frances Fawcett has some lovely work in carbon dust, if you are looking for examples. Of course, there are beautiful examples by Max Brodel as well. Carolyn Gast and Elaine Hodges, if I recall correctly. 

Years ago, I wrote an article called PAINTING WITH DUST for a lettering magazine. Contact me directly if you'd like more information.

K




On Jan 28, 2014, at 5:02 PM, Patricia Savage <[log in to unmask]> wrote:

Hi,
I'm going to teach a class in Carbon Dust this next year. It's been quite some time since I researched what kind of drafting films are out there, or even IF they are still being made. Do any of you have any experience with drafting films and Carbon Dust? Can you recommend some brands?

Thanks!
--

 

Cheers,

Patricia Savage

 

Mayapple Studio

919-859-2789 (h), 919-438-6766 (m)

www.psavageart.com

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