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Trudy Nicholson has been experimenting with Museum series panels
claybords by Ampersand with some success.  They  require a bit of prep but
they behave a lot like the original Ross Boards. I find Generals carbon
pencils are better than the Wolf's these days. I bought a big bath of
Wolf's to teach a class at the museum and they seem to be gritty and tough
for the kids to get a nice smooth finish.

I think I remember either cutting or burning the tips of flat sable brushes
to make them stiff Mali says


On Wed, Jan 29, 2014 at 5:09 PM, Mali Moir <[log in to unmask]> wrote:

> Hi,
> I have used graphite bought from the hardware shop, sold to loosen up
> locks, but only the micro fine will work. I found that the harder and
> stiffer my brush or tool, the darker the tonal effect, ie, soft sable =
> light tone, stiff taklon or hogs hair bristle brush = darker tone, paper
> stub = darker again.
> Yes super for illustrating bones, my students did an amazing job with
> skulls and so quick compared to pencils !
> I first came across it in the GNSI handbook many years ago, what a
> revelation?Such brilliant artists !
>
> *Mali Moir*
> *Botanical, Scientific and Natural History Artist*
> *M. 0422 575 034*
> *Sent from a void far far away*
>
> On 30 Jan 2014, at 8:15 am, Clara Richardson <
> [log in to unmask]> wrote:
>
> You need a metal file to grind it up.
>
> On Jan 29, 2014, at 4:14 PM, Clara Richardson <
> [log in to unmask]> wrote:
>
> Yes, exactly, Wolff's carbon pencil and regular graphite. You have to
> apply the carbon dust first I think I remember as the graphite is more
> oily. You can mix them and you can use different hardnesses.
>
> -Clara
>
> On Jan 29, 2014, at 3:11 PM, Jane <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
>
>  Hi Patricia,
> Can you tell me the difference between carbon and graphite dust?  I am
> assuming one is made from a graphite pencil and the other from something
> like a General's charcoal pencil.  Is that so?
> Thanks,
> Jane
>
>  *From:* Patricia Savage <[log in to unmask]>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 29, 2014 2:24 PM
> *To:* [log in to unmask]
> *Subject:* Re: [SCIART] Carbon Dust
>
>  I have been experimenting with Strathmore plate finish and 500 regular
> surface, Essdee, Arches 300 hot and cold press, bond paper and unnamed
> colored pastel paper. By far, I prefer the cold press. Love the texture and
> gorgeous, deep, dark, rich, velvety black. Can't really scratch it out
> though. Will try the illustration board you suggest as well. Is the white
> paint the brand name?
>
> Please, any additional information you want to send my way would be lovely!
>
> Patricia Savage
> Mayapple Studio
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jan 28, 2014, at 7:59 PM, Dave Mazierski <[log in to unmask]>
> wrote:
>
>  Patricia,
>
> I use Crescent 310 illustration board, based on my experience working on
> new carbon dust illustrations for Grant's Atlas, where we tried to create
> new illustrations in the style of the existing artwork. Although Dorothy
> Foster-Chubb training with Max Brödel, and there were fantastic clay coated
> papers available in that 'golden age' of carbon dust, she created all of
> her c-d illustrations on cold pressed board. The surface is nice and toothy
> (maybe too much for some sensibilities... it is certainly rougher than
> clay-coated papers or drafting film), and almost impossible to mess up... add
> white highlights are with graphic white opaque paint. Let me know if you
> would like more information...
>
> D.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  On Jan 28, 2014, at 5:02 PM, Patricia Savage <[log in to unmask]>
> wrote:
>
>  Hi,
> I'm going to teach a class in Carbon Dust this next year. It's been quite
> some time since I researched what kind of drafting films are out there, or
> even IF they are still being made. Do any of you have any experience with
> drafting films and Carbon Dust? Can you recommend some brands?
>
> Thanks!
> --
>
> Cheers,
> Patricia Savage
>
> *Mayapple** Studio*
> 919-859-2789 (h), 919-438-6766 (m)
> www.psavageart.com
> Join me on Facebook
>
>
>
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