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Trudy Nicholson has been experimenting with Museum series panels claybords by Ampersand with some success. They require a bit of prep but they behave a lot like the original Ross Boards. I find Generals carbon pencils are better than the Wolf's these days. I bought a big bath of Wolf's to teach a class at the museum and they seem to be gritty and tough for the kids to get a nice smooth finish. I think I remember either cutting or burning the tips of flat sable brushes to make them stiff Mali says On Wed, Jan 29, 2014 at 5:09 PM, Mali Moir <[log in to unmask]> wrote: > Hi, > I have used graphite bought from the hardware shop, sold to loosen up > locks, but only the micro fine will work. I found that the harder and > stiffer my brush or tool, the darker the tonal effect, ie, soft sable = > light tone, stiff taklon or hogs hair bristle brush = darker tone, paper > stub = darker again. > Yes super for illustrating bones, my students did an amazing job with > skulls and so quick compared to pencils ! > I first came across it in the GNSI handbook many years ago, what a > revelation?Such brilliant artists ! > > *Mali Moir* > *Botanical, Scientific and Natural History Artist* > *M. 0422 575 034* > *Sent from a void far far away* > > On 30 Jan 2014, at 8:15 am, Clara Richardson < > [log in to unmask]> wrote: > > You need a metal file to grind it up. > > On Jan 29, 2014, at 4:14 PM, Clara Richardson < > [log in to unmask]> wrote: > > Yes, exactly, Wolff's carbon pencil and regular graphite. You have to > apply the carbon dust first I think I remember as the graphite is more > oily. You can mix them and you can use different hardnesses. > > -Clara > > On Jan 29, 2014, at 3:11 PM, Jane <[log in to unmask]> wrote: > > Hi Patricia, > Can you tell me the difference between carbon and graphite dust? I am > assuming one is made from a graphite pencil and the other from something > like a General's charcoal pencil. Is that so? > Thanks, > Jane > > *From:* Patricia Savage <[log in to unmask]> > *Sent:* Wednesday, January 29, 2014 2:24 PM > *To:* [log in to unmask] > *Subject:* Re: [SCIART] Carbon Dust > > I have been experimenting with Strathmore plate finish and 500 regular > surface, Essdee, Arches 300 hot and cold press, bond paper and unnamed > colored pastel paper. By far, I prefer the cold press. Love the texture and > gorgeous, deep, dark, rich, velvety black. Can't really scratch it out > though. Will try the illustration board you suggest as well. Is the white > paint the brand name? > > Please, any additional information you want to send my way would be lovely! > > Patricia Savage > Mayapple Studio > > Sent from my iPad > > On Jan 28, 2014, at 7:59 PM, Dave Mazierski <[log in to unmask]> > wrote: > > Patricia, > > I use Crescent 310 illustration board, based on my experience working on > new carbon dust illustrations for Grant's Atlas, where we tried to create > new illustrations in the style of the existing artwork. Although Dorothy > Foster-Chubb training with Max Brödel, and there were fantastic clay coated > papers available in that 'golden age' of carbon dust, she created all of > her c-d illustrations on cold pressed board. The surface is nice and toothy > (maybe too much for some sensibilities... it is certainly rougher than > clay-coated papers or drafting film), and almost impossible to mess up... add > white highlights are with graphic white opaque paint. Let me know if you > would like more information... > > D. > > > > > > > > > > On Jan 28, 2014, at 5:02 PM, Patricia Savage <[log in to unmask]> > wrote: > > Hi, > I'm going to teach a class in Carbon Dust this next year. It's been quite > some time since I researched what kind of drafting films are out there, or > even IF they are still being made. Do any of you have any experience with > drafting films and Carbon Dust? Can you recommend some brands? > > Thanks! > -- > > Cheers, > Patricia Savage > > *Mayapple** Studio* > 919-859-2789 (h), 919-438-6766 (m) > www.psavageart.com > Join me on Facebook > > > > ________________________________________________ > > Need to leave or subscribe to the Sciart-L listserv? Follow the > instructions at > http://www.gnsi.org/resources/reviews/gnsi-sciart-l-listserv > > > > ________________________________________________ > > Need to leave or subscribe to the Sciart-L listserv? Follow the > instructions at > http://www.gnsi.org/resources/reviews/gnsi-sciart-l-listserv > > ________________________________________________ > > Need to leave or subscribe to the Sciart-L listserv? Follow the > instructions at > http://www.gnsi.org/resources/reviews/gnsi-sciart-l-listserv > > ________________________________________________ > > Need to leave or subscribe to the Sciart-L listserv? Follow the > instructions at > http://www.gnsi.org/resources/reviews/gnsi-sciart-l-listserv > > ________________________________________________ > > Need to leave or subscribe to the Sciart-L listserv? Follow the > instructions at > http://www.gnsi.org/resources/reviews/gnsi-sciart-l-listserv > > ________________________________________________ > > Need to leave or subscribe to the Sciart-L listserv? Follow the > instructions at > http://www.gnsi.org/resources/reviews/gnsi-sciart-l-listserv > Need to leave or subscribe to the Sciart-L listserv? 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