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Trudy Nicholson has been experimenting with Museum series panels claybords by Ampersand with some success.  They  require a bit of prep but they behave a lot like the original Ross Boards. I find Generals carbon pencils are better than the Wolf's these days. I bought a big bath of Wolf's to teach a class at the museum and they seem to be gritty and tough for the kids to get a nice smooth finish.

I think I remember either cutting or burning the tips of flat sable brushes to make them stiff Mali says


On Wed, Jan 29, 2014 at 5:09 PM, Mali Moir <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
Hi,
I have used graphite bought from the hardware shop, sold to loosen up locks, but only the micro fine will work. I found that the harder and stiffer my brush or tool, the darker the tonal effect, ie, soft sable = light tone, stiff taklon or hogs hair bristle brush = darker tone, paper stub = darker again.
Yes super for illustrating bones, my students did an amazing job with skulls and so quick compared to pencils !
I first came across it in the GNSI handbook many years ago, what a revelation?Such brilliant artists !

Mali Moir
Botanical, Scientific and Natural History Artist
M. 0422 575 034
Sent from a void far far away

On 30 Jan 2014, at 8:15 am, Clara Richardson <[log in to unmask]> wrote:

You need a metal file to grind it up.

On Jan 29, 2014, at 4:14 PM, Clara Richardson <[log in to unmask]> wrote:

Yes, exactly, Wolff's carbon pencil and regular graphite. You have to apply the carbon dust first I think I remember as the graphite is more oily. You can mix them and you can use different hardnesses.

-Clara

On Jan 29, 2014, at 3:11 PM, Jane <[log in to unmask]> wrote:

Hi Patricia,
Can you tell me the difference between carbon and graphite dust?  I am assuming one is made from a graphite pencil and the other from something like a General’s charcoal pencil.  Is that so?
Thanks,
Jane
 
From: [log in to unmask]" href="mailto:[log in to unmask]" target="_blank">Patricia Savage
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2014 2:24 PM
To: [log in to unmask]" href="mailto:[log in to unmask]" target="_blank">[log in to unmask]
Subject: Re: [SCIART] Carbon Dust
 
I have been experimenting with Strathmore plate finish and 500 regular surface, Essdee, Arches 300 hot and cold press, bond paper and unnamed colored pastel paper. By far, I prefer the cold press. Love the texture and gorgeous, deep, dark, rich, velvety black. Can't really scratch it out though. Will try the illustration board you suggest as well. Is the white paint the brand name?
 
Please, any additional information you want to send my way would be lovely!

Patricia Savage
Mayapple Studio
 
Sent from my iPad

On Jan 28, 2014, at 7:59 PM, Dave Mazierski <[log in to unmask]> wrote:

Patricia,
 
I use Crescent 310 illustration board, based on my experience working on new carbon dust illustrations for Grant’s Atlas, where we tried to create new illustrations in the style of the existing artwork. Although Dorothy Foster-Chubb training with Max Brödel, and there were fantastic clay coated papers available in that ‘golden age’ of carbon dust, she created all of her c-d illustrations on cold pressed board. The surface is nice and toothy (maybe too much for some sensibilities… it is certainly rougher than clay-coated papers or drafting film), and almost impossible to mess up… add white highlights are with graphic white opaque paint. Let me know if you would like more information…
 
D.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
On Jan 28, 2014, at 5:02 PM, Patricia Savage <[log in to unmask]> wrote:

Hi,
I'm going to teach a class in Carbon Dust this next year. It's been quite some time since I researched what kind of drafting films are out there, or even IF they are still being made. Do any of you have any experience with drafting films and Carbon Dust? Can you recommend some brands?

Thanks!
-- 
 
Cheers,
Patricia Savage
 
Mayapple Studio
Join me on Facebook
 
 

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