Interesting use of adjustment layers, Tiffany.  I'll have to try your method to see exactly how it works. And I know what you mean about trying to adjust, or copy and paste, an adjustment layer instead of the image way down below.  Wish I had a buck for every time I did that :).

Curves is one of the most versatile adjustments, especially in layers, that is available on Photoshop.  On photos I sometimes have two or three curves layers, especially when converting a photo to monochrome (black/white).  The first is to micro adjust the contrast in color (one can make more than one contrast adjustment along a curves line), then a black/white adjustment layer, then a second curves to set black and white points and modify the overall contrast if needed.  And here's where the Color Selection can often help.  For instance if there's a dark area where I would like a bit more contrast, I'll select that area with color selection, modify the selection if necessary, then add a curves layer to adjust only that selection.  Here's a couple examples of that last process, photos in Iceland of dark lava taken on a gray days -- talk about needing a boost in contrast.

When I use a Wacom tablet to make erasures, I use the pressure sensitive eraser brush with a hard edge.  That way one can position the eraser carefully before pressing to activate the erasure.

When using "stop" points on a curves layer to restrict the adjustment to a certain value range, it helps to put two points close together on both ends.  That stops the layer from solarizing when making the necessary contrast correction within the selected range.

I don't think anyone knows everything about Pshop, Tiffany.  Especially when there's 4 or 5 ways to arrive at the same result.


On Tue, Mar 11, 2014 at 12:53 AM, Tiffany Miller Russell <[log in to unmask]> wrote:

I scan my graphite sketches and love to keep the light construction lines.


My method starts and ends similar to what you do, Bruce.



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