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The Falcon Banner has posted a new item, 'Tutorial: Diamond Point Engraving
<http://falconbanner.gladiusinfractus.com/2016/04/10/tutorial-diamond-point-engraving/>'


Reposted with permission from https://kaloethina.wordpress.com.
------------------------------

*Original post appeared October 19, 2014*

About a week ago, I posted photos of my Rose in Any Medium goblet
<https://kaloethina.wordpress.com/2014/10/12/roses-in-the-garden/> entry
that I did with diamond point engraving.  I also promised those in the Artisans
of the Society for Creative Anachronism Facebook group
<https://www.facebook.com/groups/195046376566/?fref=ts> that I would
publish a tutorial on how to decorate glass with this technique.

Here’s what you will need:


* [image: 100_4986]
<http://falconbanner.gladiusinfractus.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/100_4986.jpg>A
glass object* (most engraved pieces in period were either goblets or
plates.  I’ve had better luck with goblets, but your mileage may vary.  I
purchase most of my glass for these projects at thrift stores, but I’ve
also had luck finding cheap Libbey-ware at the dollar store.)

*Permanent markers* (I am fond of using multiple widths – I’ve got brush
tips, fine tips, ultra-fine tips . . . they all work for this.  *Do not use
china markers for this project.  Repeat.  Do not use china markers for this
project.*  *They will mess up your diamond tip.  Don’t ask me how I know.*)

*Rubbing alcohol* (you’ll see why later!)


* [image: 100_4987]
<http://falconbanner.gladiusinfractus.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/100_4987.jpg>A
diamond-point engraver* (these can be purchased from Ted Pella
<http://www.tedpella.com/tools_html/54410.htm> as a “diamond scribe,” and
it may be more inexpensive to go with an angled tip and with a pair of
pliers, gently shape into a straight scribe.  Originally made for the
science industry, these are great for creating random bits of SCA pretty!)

*Paper or low-lint fabric towels* (again, you’ll see why later)

*Safety glasses* (you will be making glass chips.  Need I say more?)

*Optional items*

*A plastic storage container, lined with soft material* (mostly because I
have found that this can be very taxing on hands, and well, glass is
fragile)

*A pencil grip* (you are putting a lot of pressure on hands and fingers on
a metal scribe, which fatigues the hands.  Using a pencil grip to help
cushion may help you out)

*Sketched art of common motifs as found in period and tape* (if you have
difficulties drawing, but can trace, this can help you out a lot)

*Process*

Ready to get started?  Excellent!


* [image: 100_4992]
<http://falconbanner.gladiusinfractus.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/100_4992.jpg>Step
one:* Use the rubbing alcohol and paper towels to clean your glass of any
oils, gack, or china marking pencils (like my local thrift stores are fond
of using).  You may also run your piece through the dishwasher, and then
use the rubbing alcohol, but the key is to have a super-clean surface.  The
reasoning for having a super-clean surface is so the engraver can stay in
contact with the glass as you sketch your drawing onto it.  Also, take this
time to inspect your piece.  It should have no bubbles, cracks, etc.  If it
does, this can cause the piece to break while you’re working on it.

*Step two:* Take your permanent markers, and start sketching your design on
the surface.  If you cannot
[image: 100_4995]
<http://falconbanner.gladiusinfractus.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/100_4995.jpg>draw,
tape art of your motif on the inside of the glass, and trace with the
marker on the outside.  The downside of this method is that the design can
become warped. When you do your layouts, remember that what you draw out
will look frosted over, and while you can do hatching, it will look darker
or different.
[image: 100_4997]
<http://falconbanner.gladiusinfractus.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/100_4997.jpg>Do
not worry if you make a mistake at this point.  Use your rubbing alcohol to
clean up any mistakes and keep going – at this point, you’re doing your
layout, and details may change from this point forward.  Also, do not worry
if the ink comes off before you want – keep your permanent marker nearby
and draw the detail back in.

Step three: Put on your safety glasses, uncap your engraver, and start
scratching away on your lines.  Every engraver has a “side,” meaning that
there
[image: 100_5000]
<http://falconbanner.gladiusinfractus.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/100_5000.jpg>
is a sharper side that will be easier to scratch with. Additionally, you
will need to use some pressure, and this is truly the nerve-wracking part,
as calibrating the proper amount of pressure takes practice.  You’ll also
want to be able to wipe away glass chips as you go, as these can accumulate
on the glass itself.  At this point, you’ll be scratching on the lines
you’ve drawn on the outside.  Work until you’re happy with it.

*Tips*

For straight lines going around the glass, you can place your engraver on a
pile of books or magazines, press down on the engraver, and rotate the
glass.  However, depending on the thickness of your glass, this may or may
not remove a well-formed ring of glass (which looks cool, yes, but shortens
the glass and can create further issues, as the rim is now sharp).

Have spare glasses at the ready.  Breakage doesn’t happen often, but it is
a risk.
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