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The #16 blade - that's what I meant by a flat blade that I've been using. I
believe you or Ann had that on a supply list for one of the courses I took!

On Wed, Jul 6, 2016 at 10:36 AM, Kathleen Garness <[log in to unmask]>
wrote:

> I’ve also used the back of a stainless steel spoon to rub down the surface
> of watercolor paper after I’ve had to make changes. Sometimes that’s all it
> needs. But if you’re using ink, I’d put down a bit of gelatin sizing or
> even try the watercolor ground (on a separate piece of paper for a trial
> run) for a smooth line.
>
> Kathy
>
> On Jul 6, 2016, at 8:42 AM, Lore Ruttan <[log in to unmask]
> <[log in to unmask]>> wrote:
>
> Thank you, thank you for the detailed, extensive comments!!
>
> I was thinking of using a flat exacto blade but a curved one sounds even
> better. Time to run to the store for that and some methyl cellulose.
>
> I'm curious if anyone has tried using watercolor ground to repair the
> paper as Karen suggested with acrylic gesso. Btw, it's Dr. Martin's sepia
> tone ink. I tested lots of different inks before starting the painting and
> found I like the way it handles. However, in my haste to FINALLY finish a
> painting I've been working on for 2 years, I pressed on the nib too hard in
> an effort to get a thicker line. A Lore classic to mess up in the last 5
> minutes. LOL
>
> Will let you know how it works out!
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 6, 2016 at 8:30 AM, Bruce Bartrug <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
>
>> Lore,
>>
>> I've used the method Karen has indicated successfully.  My episode was on
>> the old Lanaquarelle 300lb hot press. Use a curved scalpel-like Exacto
>> blade and be very patient with the scraping.  If you get long fuzzy fibers
>> that stick up and won't remove with a white eraser, you can try to slice
>> them with the same scalpel blade, being very careful of course not to slice
>> into the paper below.  Since methyl cellulose is still used as a sizing, it
>> can restore the sheen of the paper if you feel that is needed.  (You might
>> email Twin Rocker to see if that's what they size their paper with.)
>> Methyl cellulose is also used as wallpaper paste, but make certain it is
>> the only ingredient if you should buy some.
>>
>> I think you'll find this works well,
>> bab
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 6, 2016 at 1:38 AM, Karen Ackoff <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
>>
>>> Curious what brand of India ink you used. Windsor & Newton and/or
>>> Pelikan, Koh-I-Nohr’s universal black, and opaque acrylic inks work well.
>>> Higgins is a mess - way too gummy, too much shellac. More given to
>>> smearing, particularly in high humidity. Waterproof, by the way, doesn’t
>>> happen instantly. It can take a few days for the ink to “cure”.
>>>
>>> I would duplicate the problem on a scrap of Twinrocker. Test your
>>> technique with it.
>>>
>>> Let it dry really, really well. Use a hair dryer beforehand,
>>> particularly if it’s humid. Scraping paper in a humid environment is asking
>>> for trouble.
>>>
>>> Try scraping it with a sharp blade, preferably a curved scalpel blade
>>> (being careful NOT to use the point of the blade). At first it will seem
>>> like you are getting nowhere, but be patient and just coax it along. Every
>>> now and then blow away any debris and use a white plastic eraser, which may
>>> pick up some additional material. The trick is to scrape gently, so as to
>>> damage the paper as little as possible.
>>>
>>> Repeat scraping/erasing until you get the desired result.
>>>
>>> If the area needs repair (and it may be just fine as is)…you can patch
>>> the area using one of several methods.
>>>
>>> I would mix white (permanent, zinc or titanium white gouache) with a
>>> little yellow ochre to match EXACTLY the color of the paper. Test it on a
>>> scrap, let it dry, and then look at the color match. Don’t worry that your
>>> mixture isn’t quite opaque. You don’t want thick, gummy paint. It should be
>>> fluid. Then, STIPPLE that over the area of any remaining ink. Let dry
>>> thoroughly. Repeat until it is covered to your satisfaction. If there is
>>> ink that keeps showing through, try using Dr. Martin’s bleed proof white
>>> for your white. I’ve sometimes used acrylic gesso to help repair spots -
>>> the gesso effectively seals what is beneath.
>>>
>>> A second approach would be to use a little methyl cellulose (a glue used
>>> to repair paper) over the area to build the paper back up. Then use the
>>> stipple method above.
>>>
>>> My guess is, though, that you can clean it up using a blade to gently,
>>> GENTLY scrape. I’ve done that many times. You will notice a slight change
>>> in the reflectivity of the paper's surface, but with cold press paper,
>>> you’ve got an uneven surface any way, so it should be relatively forgiving.
>>> 1/4-inch spot should be do-able.
>>>
>>> If this doesn’t work, Dave’s inlay method could work. I used an “inlay”
>>> method for the tiny numbers in crossword puzzles, when I did layout by
>>> hand, B.C. (before computers).
>>>
>>> Take pictures (it might be a fun newsletter contribution) and tell us
>>> how it goes. Best of luck.
>>>
>>> K
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Jul 5, 2016, at 11:06 PM, Lore Ruttan <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
>>>
>>> Twin rocker 300lb cold press. Roughly 1/4" or 1/2 cm. Made worse by
>>> dabbing it of course!
>>>
>>> Interesting idea to patch the paper.
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Jul 5, 2016, at 9:50 PM, Karen Ackoff <[log in to unmask]
>>> <[log in to unmask]>> wrote:
>>>
>>> How big of a blob and what kind of paper?
>>> K
>>>
>>> From my iPhone.
>>>
>>> On Jul 5, 2016, at 8:46 PM, Lore Ruttan <[log in to unmask]
>>> <[log in to unmask]>> wrote:
>>>
>>> After carefully inking in some 1000 or so names on a piece of art for a
>>> capital campaign, my nib left a blob of ink on the very last thing, the
>>> title. Any thoughts on removing India Ink from watercolor paper? Mr. Clean
>>> doesn't work on India Ink. I'm thinking carefully scraping it off with a
>>> razor is the way to go but if anyone has a secret formula please let me
>>> know!
>>>
>>> --
>>> *Lore Ruttan, *Ph.D.
>>>
>>> Lore Ruttan Illustration <http://www.loreruttanillustration.com/>
>>>
>>> Visit my Etsy shop at http://www.etsy.com/shop/Paperlore
>>>
>>> ________________________________________________
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>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Bruce Bartrug
>> Nobleboro, Maine, USA
>> [log in to unmask]
>> www.brucebartrug.com
>>
>> •The world is a dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but
>> because of those who look on and do nothing.  - Albert Einstein
>> •In the end, we will remember not the words of our enemies, but the
>> silence of our friends. -Martin Luther King
>>
>> ________________________________________________
>>
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>>
>
>
>
> --
> *Lore Ruttan, *Ph.D.
>
> Lore Ruttan Illustration <http://www.loreruttanillustration.com/>
>
> Visit my Etsy shop at http://www.etsy.com/shop/Paperlore
>
> ________________________________________________
>
> Need to leave or subscribe to the Sciart-L listserv? Follow the
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>
>
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>
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-- 
*Lore Ruttan, *Ph.D.

Lore Ruttan Illustration <http://www.loreruttanillustration.com>

Visit my Etsy shop at http://www.etsy.com/shop/Paperlore

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