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Patricia and Bruce, Thank you! GAC 100 keeps popping up, so I will order some. I’m also going to experiment a little and see what happens over time with various sealers. But will otherwise rely on the GAC 100. One person suggested strips of rubber… but there is “rubber” and there is “rubber” and I wouldn’t want it against a painting. I suppose a frame spacer could be used, but then the painting wouldn’t sit as securely in the frame, plus the hard plastic might leave an indentation on the edge of the painting.

The trick will be to not have the gesso show at the very edge. I just might take a damp rag or q-tip and gently “wipe” along that edge. Will ask my framer for some scraps to experiment with. I’ve moved and will be working with a new framer, and thankfully they sound like they’re willing to work with me.

The do-it-yourself framing places seem to be disappearing, but my new place will make the frame and cut the glass, and I can do the rest. My former frame shop has raised their prices more than double (the owner is having personal problems). I’m sorry for the owner but not willing to pay that much.

Life ain’t dull.

K








On Sep 15, 2016, at 6:28 PM, Bruce Bartrug <[log in to unmask]> wrote:

Golden's GAC 100.  Apply two or three coats.  Shellac is for furniture and wood trim in old houses, for which it is very good.

Best,
bab

On Thu, Sep 15, 2016 at 4:04 PM, Patricia Savage <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
Golden's GAC 100 seals the surface. My understanding is that it is archival and protects against SID. You should apply at least two coats.

Patricia Savage
Mayapple Studio
www.psavageart.com

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 15, 2016, at 2:50 PM, Karen Ackoff <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
>
> I have a question regarding framing… When framing a painting on board or canvas, what do you use, if anything, to seal the wood that touches the painting?
>
> I ask because I’m starting to frame some egg tempera paintings, and there is about 1.4-inch overlap. I’ve always read that the wood should be sealed where it touches the painting. There is a framer’s tape that is adhesive-backed with a foil layer. But I’ve heard from other egg tempera people, that this has stuck to the egg tempera painting and the painting then required repair. I suppose this might work better depending on how long the painting cures (egg tempera dries rapidly, but can take about 9 or 10 months to fully cure).
>
> I suppose shellac could be used but don’t know if it, too, might stick. Other possibilities would be Filmoplast-P90 tape, which is an archival white paper tape, but it might breathe enough to transfer any acid from the wood to the painting. My next best guess would be acrylic gesso, left to cure for at least a week… the gesso I know seals well as I use it to repair water stains on dry wall.
>
> Thoughts? Ideas?
>
> Karen
>
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--
Bruce Bartrug
Nobleboro, Maine, USA
[log in to unmask]
www.brucebartrug.com

•The world is a dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but because of those who look on and do nothing.  - Albert Einstein
•In the end, we will remember not the words of our enemies, but the silence of our friends. -Martin Luther King

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