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You might try a thin strip of ethafoam. Or even glassine paper. Ethafoam
not going to put anything on to your painting, it has a bit of give so
should leave a mark and it's archival. Comes in a ton of different
thicknesses.  Sources: Gaylord, Uline, Light Impressions

On Sep 15, 2016 10:23 PM, "Karen Ackoff" <[log in to unmask]> wrote:

> Patricia and Bruce, Thank you! GAC 100 keeps popping up, so I will order
> some. I’m also going to experiment a little and see what happens over time
> with various sealers. But will otherwise rely on the GAC 100. One person
> suggested strips of rubber… but there is “rubber” and there is “rubber” and
> I wouldn’t want it against a painting. I suppose a frame spacer could be
> used, but then the painting wouldn’t sit as securely in the frame, plus the
> hard plastic might leave an indentation on the edge of the painting.
>
> The trick will be to not have the gesso show at the very edge. I just
> might take a damp rag or q-tip and gently “wipe” along that edge. Will ask
> my framer for some scraps to experiment with. I’ve moved and will be
> working with a new framer, and thankfully they sound like they’re willing
> to work with me.
>
> The do-it-yourself framing places seem to be disappearing, but my new
> place will make the frame and cut the glass, and I can do the rest. My
> former frame shop has raised their prices more than double (the owner is
> having personal problems). I’m sorry for the owner but not willing to pay
> that much.
>
> Life ain’t dull.
>
> K
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sep 15, 2016, at 6:28 PM, Bruce Bartrug <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
>
> Golden's GAC 100.  Apply two or three coats.  Shellac is for furniture and
> wood trim in old houses, for which it is very good.
>
> Best,
> bab
>
> On Thu, Sep 15, 2016 at 4:04 PM, Patricia Savage <[log in to unmask]>
> wrote:
>
>> Golden's GAC 100 seals the surface. My understanding is that it is
>> archival and protects against SID. You should apply at least two coats.
>>
>> Patricia Savage
>> Mayapple Studio
>> www.psavageart.com
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> > On Sep 15, 2016, at 2:50 PM, Karen Ackoff <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
>> >
>> > I have a question regarding framing… When framing a painting on board
>> or canvas, what do you use, if anything, to seal the wood that touches the
>> painting?
>> >
>> > I ask because I’m starting to frame some egg tempera paintings, and
>> there is about 1.4-inch overlap. I’ve always read that the wood should be
>> sealed where it touches the painting. There is a framer’s tape that is
>> adhesive-backed with a foil layer. But I’ve heard from other egg tempera
>> people, that this has stuck to the egg tempera painting and the painting
>> then required repair. I suppose this might work better depending on how
>> long the painting cures (egg tempera dries rapidly, but can take about 9 or
>> 10 months to fully cure).
>> >
>> > I suppose shellac could be used but don’t know if it, too, might stick.
>> Other possibilities would be Filmoplast-P90 tape, which is an archival
>> white paper tape, but it might breathe enough to transfer any acid from the
>> wood to the painting. My next best guess would be acrylic gesso, left to
>> cure for at least a week… the gesso I know seals well as I use it to repair
>> water stains on dry wall.
>> >
>> > Thoughts? Ideas?
>> >
>> > Karen
>> >
>> > Need to leave or subscribe to the Sciart-L listserv? Follow the
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>
>
>
> --
> Bruce Bartrug
> Nobleboro, Maine, USA
> [log in to unmask]
> www.brucebartrug.com
>
> •The world is a dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but
> because of those who look on and do nothing.  - Albert Einstein
> •In the end, we will remember not the words of our enemies, but the
> silence of our friends. -Martin Luther King
>
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