I leave documents as PSD files. Unless
you want to use a compressed TIFF format which used
non-lossy compression. Years ago, I always used TIFF. But
anymore I leave files in native format. If you are sending
files to someone else, then send TIFF because they may not
have Photoshop. I try not to send files with layers to a
client because that lets them edit in ways I’d prefer they
didn't. If edit are needed, this encourages them to come to
me.
Saving as TIFF files is fine. But not
necessary to bring the files into InDesign, Illustrator or
even Quark. You can even drag & drop a PSD file into
Word.
On somewhat of a tangent:
I’d like to remind people that images
in InDesign are not embedded. So if you lose or misplace a
file that is in a document, it will print as a low res
preview or it may not print at all. A good thing to do is,
once you have finished your work, make it a habit to package
your project (File > Package). This collects the final
file, instructions, image files, and fonts into one folder.
This is what you would give a printer (this or a PDF). The
instructions simply describe the file - page size, images,
placement of images, etc. You don’t need it but it can be
handy for the printer.
I would also recommend Type 1
(PostScript) fonts or OpenType fonts, OpenType fonts being
ideal. OpenType fonts use the exact same font file on PC or
Mac. So there should be no shift in type layout due to using
a PC version of Helvetica and then shifting to a Mac version
of Helvetica. Regardless, I recommend that you stay away
from using Windows TrueType fonts on a Mac. Yes they run on
a Mac just fine. But I had a student do this on a project,
and when she went to print it, all the type defaulted to
Courier and it was a mess. So at the very least, test a
Windows TrueType font if you want to use it, and be aware
that while it may print from your printer just fine, a
printing bureau might still have problems. And this is why I
also send a proof with a job - so the printer knows what it
SHOULD look like. When in doubt, ask your printer.
InDesign has a LINKS panel that
provides great info. You can find out the color mode of an
image (should be CMYK for print, RGB for web or on-screen
viewing), resolution, size, etc. You want to pay attention
to the EFFECTIVE resolution. If you have an image that is 20
x 20 inches and 72 dpi… and you place it in your document at
5 x 5 inches, the effective resolution will be 288 dpi. Not
quite 300 dpi (best for print projects), but close enough.
When exporting to PDF, the advantage
is everything is embedded. But be sure to save your InDesign
files in the event you need to go back and edit something.
AND in PDF settings, make sure you save for the project you
have in mind. For print, use either PRESS QUALITY or HIGH
QUALITY print. Or better yet, create your own preset. I was
taught by people who work for various publishers to
basically make a preset where nothing is compressed or
downsampled. For posting a PDF on a web site, you’d want a
smaller file size, so I would then use compression and
downsampling.
And if anyone is in the position of
receiving low res images from clients, and having to
increase resolution (which tends to produce fuzzy images),
there are several options. One is what I call the 10% rule.
Found here:
http://karenackoff.net/class/increase/increase.htmlOr... ON1 RESIZE 2018 - which I think
evolved from Genuine Fractals. This takes a low res image
and makes it high res and keep amazingly good quality. While
Genuine Fractals used to be several hundred dollars, RESIZE
is currently selling for $60. A good deal. And for both PC
and Mac.
I’ve been teaching Photoshop, InDesign
and Illustrator lately… so these issues have kind of been in
my face. Apologies for the rant. And please always remember
that your mileage may vary. This is what works for me.
K